Chimpanzee tracking in Kibale is faster, noisier and more mischievous than gorilla trekking. You hear them before you see them.

Queen Elizabeth adds tree-climbing lions and boat time on the Kazinga Channel. Murchison Falls brings river, delta and savannah. Lake Mburo is a gentler close, with walking and, for some travellers, highland golf nearby.

Uganda rewards travellers who like variety in a compact country, as long as the driving days are respected.