Bwindi is steep, green and quieter than the photographs suggest until the trackers pause and the forest suddenly holds a family of mountain gorillas.
Permits are limited. Fitness helps, but the walk is not a race. Guides, porters and a sensible lodge the night before make the day feel considered rather than athletic.
We usually keep gorilla trekking as the emotional centre of a Uganda journey, then add chimpanzees, savannah or the Nile so the trip has more than one register.
